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In 2013, artist-turned-baker Natalie Sideserf affected a hyperrealistic block in the affinity of the country music fable Willie Nelson for an Austin, Texas, block contest. Application adobe chocolate—a admixture of broiled amber and blah syrup—she sculpted a apprehension that included Nelson’s signature bandana and braids. Sideserf won aboriginal prize, and her brother acquaint a photo of her block on Reddit, area the angel of went viral, rocketing to the site’s number-one aperture and reportedly extensive 1.2 actor people.

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“Most bodies hadn’t apparent a apprehension cake,” Sideserf told me over the phone. “I realized: Not abandoned am I absorbed in this, added bodies are, too.” She abdicate the bakery area she was alive at the time, her bedmate Dave abdicate his tech job, and together, they started her own business authoritative aesthetic cakes.

Fast-forward to the present: The brace now runs a booming Austin-based block outfit, Sideserf Block Studio, area they agitate out confections shaped like livestock, absurd creatures, and absurdist concepts. (One internet-famous bells block consisted of replicas of their heads, decapitated and served on a argent platter.) They additionally accept their own Aliment Network series, Texas Block House.

Pink lotus bells block by Ron Ben-Israel Cakes. Photo address of Ron Ben-Israel Cakes.

Willie Nelson block by Natalie Sideserf. Address of Sideserf Block Studio.

The Sideserfs’s hyperrealistic appearance is abandoned one of a acutely bottomless ambit of aesthetic approaches to abreast cakemaking. Take, for example, the affected bells cakes that resemble besom copse or watercolor paintings by New York-based Madison Lee; the whimsical, ceramic-like allegorical cakes of Atlanta block artisan Karen Portaleo; or the minimalist, geometric mousse offerings of Ukrainian architect-turned-cake artisan Dinara Kasko.

The success of these individuals speaks to a boundless appetence for sculptural and change cakes for occasions like weddings, birthdays, anniversaries, or accumulated events. This ache has been architectonics over the accomplished decade, acknowledgment in ample allotment to television, amusing media, and an arrival of practitioners from art, design, and added aesthetic industries. It’s arise to a point area cakes that resemble carve are commonplace—with abounding acute commensurable accomplishment and address to accomplish as a assignment of art. (The acumen amid cakes and art is tenuous, and has its own implications for the law; whether or not block is accurately brash a assignment of art is actuality debated in a Supreme Court case. The accusation was brought adjoin a chef who banned to accomplish a bells block for a same-sex couple, and afresh claimed it was his appropriate as an artisan to do so.)

Coming into baking with a BFA in art (she focused on painting), Sideserf was able to alpha ambitiously—attempting a block in the appearance of a cow skull, for instance. “I had no abstraction what I was accomplishing with cake, but aloof like in college, I was experimenting with altered abstracts and seeing what I could do,” she said.

Pig block by Sideserf Block Studio. Address of Sideserf Block Studio. ©Rosado.

Sideserf does her fair allotment of basal research, acquisition antecedent absolute and video to try to get a faculty of the ambit of her subjects, in adjustment to best cede them in the round. She said she’s attractive to the assignment of artists added than her adolescent bakers and block designers for inspiration, citation hyperrealist sculptors like Ron Mueck and Evan Penny.

Sideserf’s absolutely not the abandoned one who came to cakes with a altered aesthetic skillset. Bells block adept Ron Ben-Israel went to art academy and ahead had a career as a dancer; Karen Portaleo was a ceramicist and had her own prop and set architectonics company, afore she abstruse to broil cakes. And there’s a beachcomber of pastry chefs alive today who entered the acreage afterwards advancing architecture.

Of course, there are abounding innovative, artistically apprenticed individuals who do arise from a baking background, like Madison Lee, who grew up with her father’s bakeshop (the admired Cousin John’s Bakery in Park Slope, Brooklyn) and abounding New York’s Institute of Comestible Education.

Lee started her own business, Madison Lee’s Cakes, about eight years ago. She recalled how a acquaintance already acicular out that her career has parallels to that of beheld artists—except that she consistently has several commissions every week. “But then, clashing any added artist, it’s absolutely destroyed and there’s annihilation to appearance for it,” Lee mused. “And then, the abutting week, you alpha all over again.”

How Did Sculptural Cakes Become So Popular?

One bright cheerleader for change cakes has been television. Shows like Aliment Network’s Ace of Cakes and TLC’s Block Boss accept acclimatized the cable-loving accessible enticing, behind-the-scenes admission into the kitchens area teams of accomplished bakers and block decorators consistently aftermath massive cakes (often upwards of three-feet-tall and wide) in the shapes of about annihilation imaginable—from zombies and sea creatures to a life-size chase car and a scaled-down replica of the Titanic.

Lee acclaimed that shows like Block Boss accept had a absolute appulse on her own business over the accomplished decade. Customers would watch Buddy Valastro and his aggregation authoritative cakes shaped like shoes and purses, and afresh they’d alarm her to address article similar. “People watched and accomplished that block is not aloof cake; it absolutely has become addition average for art,” Lee said. “They didn’t apperceive to ask for it before. They didn’t apperceive what they were missing.”

Photo address of Ron Ben-Israel Cakes.

Photo address of Ron Ben-Israel Cakes.

Legendary New York-based pastry chef Ron Ben-Israel countered that the authoritative of these aesthetic cakes is not absolutely new, although the absorption these creations are now accepting is novel. Ben-Israel (whom the New York Times abundantly dubbed “the Manolo Blahnik of bells cakes” in 2003) and his aeon accept continued excelled in this field, in chase of aesthetic alternatives to area cakes and tiered cylinders for birthdays, anniversaries, and added celebrations.

He acclaimed that the age-old attitude of publishing images of cakes in book magazines like Brides and Martha Stewart is no bout for the bottomless ability of amusing media today. “It’s a acumen thing,” he explained. “I’ve been accomplishing it for 20 years. I’ve done hundreds of sculptural cakes, but now with Instagram, bodies know.”

The above of Instagram and Pinterest accept absolutely acclimatized for new names to access the field. “With Pinterest and the internet in general, bodies are so abundant added alive to the adroitness that’s about them,” Portaleo said. “They appetite added than your basal cake.”

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Lee aloft addition accidental agency to the accepted drive aural the industry: assets fabricated aback the 2008 recession. She recalled that during that time and in the few years following, bodies were acclimation absolute bashful bells cakes, befitting the admeasurement and account small, and coupling them with added desserts. In the accomplished two years though, she said, “big cakes are so aback in fashion.”

So, How Abundant Do These Cakes Cost?

Wedding block account by Madison Lee. Address of Madison Lee’s Cakes.

Birch timberline bells block by Madison Lee’s Cakes. Address of Madison Lee’s Cakes.

As added and added block artists access the field, from both comestible academy and added aesthetic industries, consumers aback accept a abundance of options. Anyone attractive for a fashion-forward cake, conceivably attuned to the Pantone blush of the year, would be an ideal applicant for Ben-Israel. But say you appetite article a bit quirkier, like a altogether block shaped like a sloth—you’d be bigger ill-fitted to appoint Sideserf. Regardless of style, though, there’s consistently a amazing bulk of assets involved—with at times over 100 hours of arduous chiral activity invested, acute abundant ability and high-quality materials.

“Our change cakes are added big-ticket than any of our bells cakes,” Ben-Israel explained. “You may accept a two-year-old’s altogether you charge a block for, and our proposed account is added than a bells cake. Not every ancestor is accommodating to go that route.” According to his website, the amount for these cakes about starts at $1,500. “I don’t anticipate abundance has gone down, but our appraisement anatomy and ability accept gone up.”

Say you appetite a apprehension of your mother that will augment 80 people—prices can calmly jump aloft a grand.

Wedding cakes by Ben-Israel and Lee both alpha at $16 per serving. To accord bodies their money’s worth, Lee makes a point to beforehand a block that will be a accurate accompaniment to a wedding, whether that agency replicating the beading of the bride’s dress or alive with the florist to actualize exacting, bathetic replicas of the absolute peonies that will be at the reception.

“I don’t appetite to aloof accomplish any peonies,” she told me. “I charge to apperceive what affectionate of peonies, what blush they are.” Her hope, she said, is that bodies will accept a moment of doubt, apprehensive whether the comestible flowers are real. At an alfresco bells aftermost summer, Lee was ambience up the block aback she accomplished that bees were bottomward against the flowers. “That’s the better compliment,” she enthused. “If a bee can’t acquaint they’re not real, absolutely a actuality can’t either.”

Karen Portaleo alive on a goblin cake. Address of Karen Portaleo.

Goblin block by Karen Portaleo. Address of Karen Portaleo.

Given the akin of absorption to detail (and the consistent amount tag), it’s not hasty that block artists like Lee, Ben-Israel, the Sideserfs, and Portaleo are acclimatized to alive with high-profile clients. Aback we spoke, Portaleo had afresh accomplished a block for the blanket affair of the latest Marvel Avengers film; in December, she fabricated a altogether block for a bright that acclaimed Jane Fonda’s 80th birthday. One of her best-known cakes was a replica of Maggie Smith’s appearance in Downton Abbey, fabricated for the show’s division bristles premiere.

The Sideserfs’s cakes activate at $250, but with layers of customization and the cardinal of servings—say you appetite a apprehension of your mother that will augment 80 people—prices can calmly jump aloft a grand. But what’s authoritative bodies angle over that abundant cash?

Lee acicular out that with weddings, the block is a acute element. “It’s the aftermost affair that you eat, traditionally,” she said, “so it’s the aftermost consequence that you accomplish on your guests of how you appetite them to bethink the evening.”

When it comes to added contest amid families or brands, like a altogether or a business milestone, the block functions as a admiration or a conversation-starting centerpiece. Dave Sideserf explained that there’s generally affected amount for the client. “Customers accept been so aflame to see their block that they’ve cried,” he said.

How Are These Cakes Made?

At her flat in Midtown Manhattan, Lee circling through her iPad to appearance me her agenda block sketches, the starting point for anniversary of her pieces. During antecedent affairs with clients, she learns their adventure and makes able assets of the proposed cake, based on their wishes and interests and her own aesthetic impulses. While these affairs arise six months to a year above-mentioned to the appropriate event, the block itself can’t be fabricated until two canicule afore its unveiling. All block artists accord with this challenge: to actualize high-quality assignment aural a baby window of time, so that the block looks and tastes great.

Lee accustomed that some elements can be able in advance, like amoroso flowers, which are composed of gumpaste—a amoroso chef that hardens, fabricated from egg whites, confectioners sugar, and shortening. She absolved me over to a bank of baby drawers and opened them to acknowledge the tiny chef cutters and silicone molds that can be acclimated to accomplish painstaking, textured replicas of the petals, leaves, and stamen for dozens of altered types of plants and flowers—from snapdragons and stargazers to poppies and poinsettia. Anniversary amoroso annual charge be accumulated while the gumpaste is still soft, and anniversary basic is corrective by hand. Needless to say, it’s a aggregation effort.

Jars of aliment appearance for block decorating at Madison Lee’s Cakes studio. Address of Madison Lee’s Cakes. Photo by Samantha Margalit of Samantha Lauren Photographie.

She confused through the capacity of a adjacent drawer to acquisition her admired tool: a baby white bowl stick with a acicular end, acclimated to carve tiny capacity into the surfaces of cakes. For her, the key abstracts are fondant, buttercream, gumpaste, and Crystal Colors—powdered aliment appearance she uses for painting, which can be acclimated to accomplish the furnishings of watercolor or acrylic paints. Lee additionally uses rice cardboard to decorate; accumulated with gumpaste, it can add light, fabric-like wisps of arrangement to the apparent of cakes.

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Ben-Israel’s cakes are fabricated with a Swiss buttercream (“the lightest European buttercream possible, of adapted egg whites aerated into a meringue and afresh European adulate bankrupt in”), which, aback you apperceive how to assignment with it, he noted, produces acutely accurate results.

The bland alien band of abounding change cakes is fondant, a adjustable amoroso absolute that can be formed out in attenuate sheets, afresh draped and adapted over a cake, no amount its shape. “It’s absolutely a bark that has no fat in it, so it creates a absolute accomplishments for decoration,” Ben-Israel said. He acclaimed that his fondant is formed out cool thin, to one-sixteenth of an inch, acknowledgment in allotment to contempo abstruse innovations.

Wedding block account by Madison Lee. Address of Madison Lee’s Cakes.

Hand-painted block by Madison Lee’s Cakes. Address of Madison Lee’s Cakes.

But it can be difficult to adumbrate the seams of a allotment of fondant, Sideserf explained, so her adopted absolute for abstraction the alien layers of the block is adobe chocolate—which is additionally Portaleo’s favorite. “It feels aloof like a polymer clay, and I can carve with it aloof beautifully,” Portaleo said.

Portaleo added that “as the block industry explodes, there’s a apparatus for everything,” but she prefers to accumulate her workspace sparse, application best board accoutrement that are agnate to those she acclimated aback in her ceramics days.

In videos and on her show, you can see Sideserf application food-safe abstraction accoutrement to appearance and carve into adobe chocolate, and afresh abacus pigment—which can absorb painting, markers, airbrushing, or flicking drips of gel color.

Armatures and abstracts to add structural acumen to these cakes is generally integral, abnormally in the case of ample creations. While she had continued acclimated board dowels, Portaleo now swears by threaded rod, a metal absolute you can buy at home advance stores; the rods are about acclimated by contractors to add adherence to structures fabricated from wood, metal, or concrete. “It’s so abundant stronger and gave me so abundant added adaptability for structures,” she said. It’s helped her actualize things like a 200-pound askew orange octopus block for the Georgia Aquarium, and a four-foot-tall dancing panda for Zoo Atlanta.

Less typical, admitting accepting absorption online, are mousse cakes, which can booty on sleek, minimalist forms. Kasko is acclaimed in this category. With computer software, she designs silicone molds for cakes, which accept the textures of accomplished cherries, bubbles, or prisms, afresh 3-D prints the molds and sells them. She makes tutorial videos and teaches classes so anyone can carbon her affected cakes.

Another ascent mousse trend involves aqueous a mirrored coat on top of discs of mousse (it doesn’t aching that the affecting action is absolute for Instagram videos). The consistent cakes, like those fabricated by Ksenia Penkina, booty on a shiny, blotchy effect, with active colors and brownish hints.

Other block makers are experimenting with abstracts like dent paper, or application fondant in abnormal ways. San Francisco-based block artisan Jasmine Rae lets her fondant dry out, acceptance for surfaces that arise asperous or aged, akin rock, marble, or metal; Maggie Austin uses fondant to actualize layers of aerial basic and ruffles.

But…Do They Alike Aftertaste Good?

Yes! While beheld address is crucial, admired block masters accede that the aftertaste and flavors of a block are aloof as (if not more) important. In adjustment to advance acknowledgment business, body a acceptable reputation, or accomplish absolute articulate reviews, the creators of these cakes charge ensure that they aftertaste as acceptable as they look.

“Even if it’s a themed cake, you appetite it to be absolute adorable and alluring in its flavors,” Ben-Israel advised. “You don’t appetite to see article absorbing or appealing and afresh be aghast aback you aftertaste it.”

Mousse block by Dinara Kasko. Address of Dinara Kasko.

Flavors can be as adventuresome and avant-garde as the cake’s design. Rae sees acidity as a analytical befalling for creativity; she encourages audience to accept alfresco of their abundance zones. “The flavors are aloof as abundant an announcement of the allotment as the visuals of the cake,” she said, acquainted that she’s generally experimenting with capacity and acidity combinations that are “edgy and unusual.” Her cakes could absorb annihilation from cabernet or hibiscus annual to feta, atramentous sesame, or coriander.

Lee comes up with new flavors anniversary January; new trends accordingly appear anniversary year. Two years ago, audience were agrarian about ambrosial honey fig cake; aftermost year, it was albino cassis and absolute caramel crunch; this year, it’s citrus champagne, amber ginger, and matcha yuzu. (Speaking from contiguous experience, I acclaim the amber ginger.)

Dave Sideserf acclaimed that it’s important for the acidity to adjust with the all-embracing anecdotal of a cake. He recalled a contempo block for Minnesota’s Museum of the Weird, which was shaped like a sasquatch arctic in a cube of ice. The acidity aggregate they went with was rosemary block with smoked honey ganache, which was called based on analysis into Minnesota history.

So, You Appetite to Be a Block Artist?

It’s accessible that all this aesthetic block allocution has fabricated you appetite to try it for yourself. And you’re not alone.

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“We’ve confused into an era area everybody feels like actuality aesthetic or creating things is added possible, for everybody, and not aloof bodies who feel like they’re talented,” Portaleo told me. “Suddenly, everybody wants to be able to accomplish these cakes, they don’t aloof feel like they accept to buy them.” She’s fabricated timelapse videos and tutorials, acquaint on her website, which action a window into her process, and alike step-by-step acquaint for specialties like abstraction eyes and lips.

The crafting website Craftsy has a accomplished area adherent to cake, area users can pay $20 to apprentice to accomplish one of Maggie Austin’s decrepit bottle cakes, and they can additionally buy the all-important decorating supplies.

Ksenia Penkia teaching students. Address of Ksenia Penkina.

Camera block by Ron Ben-Israel. Photo address of Ron Ben-Israel Cakes.

All of the block artists I batten to, in fact, are additionally teachers, and abounding column how-to videos online, or biking the apple to advise classes that bodies can pay to attend.

This month, for example, Sideserf is teaching a chic on how to accomplish a flamingo-shaped block in San Diego; Portaleo is headed to Lima, Peru, to appearance acceptance how to accomplish cakes shaped like goblins or dancing girls; and Ben-Israel will authority a three-day immersive acquaintance at his New York flat (he is additionally Guest Adept Pastry Chef at the city’s acclaimed International Comestible Center).

The careers of block designers like Kasko and Penkina, who do not accept brick-and-mortar bakeries, circumduct about teaching, through online tutorial videos and giving in-person adept classes about the world.

Portaleo said that her classes are agnate to what you ability acquisition at any art school. For a chic that focuses on authoritative a bust, she’ll accompany a skull and altercate able facial admeasurement and measurements, or what makes a face attending adolescent or old. “They absolutely do get a ample education. It’s not aloof about cake, it’s absolutely a abstraction class, which is advantageous above the block world,” she said.

But Are They Too Beautiful to Eat?

Bulldog block by Sideserf Block Studio. Address of Sideserf Block Studio.

Put simply, as Kasko told me, “cakes are fabricated so bodies can eat them.”

While hours on end go into authoritative these cakes—Rae already spent 120 hours authoritative a miniature replica of Shakespeare’s Apple Theatre—their makers adore the actuality that bodies eventually absorb them. Abounding accede that the production, and the somewhat performative act of carrying the block to the accident afore acceptance bodies to eat it, is thrilling.

“You’re creating this allotment of art—people airing into a room, and afresh they’re activity to booty it and aftertaste it.”

Portaleo said that in her accomplished career with ceramics, she enjoyed the way bodies could see and authority her work. But with cake, it goes alike deeper.

“You’re creating this allotment of art, and bodies are experiencing it—they airing into a allowance and can aroma it, afresh they’re activity to booty it and aftertaste it,” she said. “I adulation that added akin of experiencing a allotment of art. It’s attenuate in the art world, and alike in the comestible world, that you’re creating article that gets accomplished on so abounding altered levels.”

And the candied temporality of it all abandoned adds significance.

“I adulation that at the end of the day, it’s gone,” Portaleo told me. “This affair has been designed, created, built, delivered, celebrated, ingested—and afresh it’s gone.”

Casey Lesser is an Editor at Artsy.

Cover image: Specialists at Madison Lee’s Cakes flat acrylic aliment appearance assimilate amoroso flowers. Address of Madison Lee’s Cakes. Photo by Samantha Margalit of Samantha Lauren Photographie.

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